Samuel Ross: influences, peers and legacy

Every connection with its receipt

Samuel Ross builds garments and objects as "social architecture for the body" — a practice that runs from A-COLD-WALL*'s Britishness of concrete estates and class signifiers to SR_A's industrial design for Kohler, Hublot and Apple. This mix traces the brutalist architecture and post-war British art that gave him his vocabulary, the London scene that raised him, and the mentorship of Virgil Abloh that launched him.

The Kynda mix for Samuel Ross

• Key Influence · Trellick Tower by Ernő Goldfinger (1972). Ross's design language is explicitly brutalist: raw concrete greys, exposed structure, service elements pulled outside the body of the garment like Goldfinger's detached lift tower. Trellick, in North Kensington, is the emblem of the British social-housing estate Ross repeatedly references as A-COLD-WALL*'s subject matter — the architecture of the working-class Britain whose dress codes, utility and class signals the label turned into runway material.A-COLD-WALL*'s harnesses and strapping read as exoskeletons of such buildings.","m
• Influencia Obscura · Photographs of Bethnal Green (Chisenhale Road street life) by Nigel Henderson (1951). Henderson, of the Independent Group that birthed British pop and New Brutalism, photographed East London streets, pavement chalk games and bomb-site debris as raw material for art — the aesthetic of the found, the stressed surface, the collaged document. That lineage of post-war British working-class image-making underwrites A-COLD-WALL*'s presentation strategy: garments shown as evidence of a social condition, surfaces treated as weathered, taped and salvaged rather than finished.
• Local Roots · Spring/Summer 2018 collection by Martine Rose (2017). Rose showed on London estate forecourts and in Tottenham, mining British subcultural dress — football casuals, rave flyers, Caribbean sound-system culture — at exactly the moment Ross launched A-COLD-WALL* from the same city. Both belong to the late-2010s London generation that made class, locality and workwear the material of high fashion, both nurtured by Fashion East/NEWGEN-era London Fashion Week Men's and its appetite for street-rooted design.
• Beyond the Medium · Konnichiwa by Skepta (2016). Grime's resurgence was the sonic environment of A-COLD-WALL*'s founding in 2015: estate-born, independently run, hostile to gatekeepers, and built on British sportswear as a uniform of belonging. Ross's early collections dressed and were worn by that scene, and his use of utilitarian nylon, hi-vis and strapping speaks its visual dialect. The crossover of a working-class London music movement into luxury menswear is precisely the terrain his label claimed.
• Peer · Autumn/Winter 2018 collection by Kiko Kostadinov (2018). Kostadinov emerged from Central Saint Martins into London menswear in the same window as Ross, working an adjacent idiom: technical workwear patterns, utilitarian seaming, industrial collaboration (his Asics projects parallel Ross's Nike and Converse work). Both were cast by press as the designers remaking British menswear through engineering rather than styling, and both built studio practices spanning garments and product design.
• From the Canon · Nike Air Force 1 Low 'A-COLD-WALL*' by Samuel Ross (2019). Ross's reworking of Nike's most culturally loaded sneaker — stripped, resealed, rendered in concrete and stone tones with exposed construction — is the purest statement of his method: take a mass industrial object, expose its structure, and recode it as social commentary. It also marked his arrival as a designer able to operate at scale with a sportswear giant, the bridge between A-COLD-WALL*'s runway and SR_A's product work.
• Key Collaborator · Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019 menswear collection by Virgil Abloh (2018). Abloh was Ross's mentor: Ross worked as his design assistant across Off-White and Abloh's wider studio output before launching A-COLD-WALL* in 2015, and has consistently credited that apprenticeship with teaching him how to build a brand and navigate luxury. Abloh's Louis Vuitton debut — the rainbow runway, the streetwear-to-maison ascent — is the template of the career path Ross entered the industry alongside.
• Legacy · Silent Madness by Mowalola Ogunlesi (2019). Mowalola's London label belongs to the generation that followed Ross through the city's Black-led design surge, pursuing the same fusion of subcultural British dress, provocation and brand-building outside traditional houses. Ross's Black British Artists Grants Programme, founded to fund exactly this cohort, institutionalised the support structure that makes such careers possible, making his influence as much infrastructural as aesthetic.

What influenced Samuel Ross

• Marc Newson. The article compares Ross's work with Newson's and reports Ross's admiration for him. “Ross's work has been compared to the Australian designer Marc Newson 's early designs (Ross readily admits "that he wants to become his generation's [Marc] Newson"),” (Wikipedia)
• Virgil Abloh (1980). Abloh mentored Ross after taking him on as an intern. (also via A-COLD-WALL* Autumn/Winter 2018, Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019 menswear collection) “He went on to intern for, and was subsequently hired by, Virgil Abloh , who became Ross's mentor.” (Wikipedia)
• Peter Saville. The article also compares Ross's work with Saville's. “as well as that of English graphic artist Peter Saville — both of whom have also become friends and admirers of Ross's work.” (Wikipedia)
• De Montfort University. Ross studied at and graduated from De Montfort University. “He attended and graduated from De Montfort University , Leicester where he received first class honours for a Bachelor of Arts in Graphic Design and Illustration” (Wikipedia)
• Konnichiwa by Skepta (2016). Konnichiwa (Skepta) — culture for Samuel Ross (musicbrainz.org)
• Robin Hood Gardens by Alison and Peter Smithson (1972). Robin Hood Gardens (Alison and Peter Smithson) — titan for Samuel Ross (wikidata.org)
• Untrue by Burial (2007). Untrue (Burial) — culture for Samuel Ross (musicbrainz.org)
• Mezzanine by Massive Attack (1998). Mezzanine (Massive Attack) — culture for Samuel Ross (musicbrainz.org)
• Trellick Tower by Ernő Goldfinger (1972). Trellick Tower (Ernő Goldfinger) — titan for Samuel Ross (wikidata.org)
• House by Rachel Whiteread (1993). House (Rachel Whiteread) — ghost for Samuel Ross
• Unité d'Habitation, Marseille by Le Corbusier (1952). Unité d'Habitation, Marseille (Le Corbusier) — titan for Samuel Ross
• Photographs of Bethnal Green (Chisenhale Road street life) by Nigel Henderson (1951). Photographs of Bethnal Green (Chisenhale Road street life) (Nigel Henderson) — ghost for Samuel Ross
• Louis Vuitton. A-COLD-WALL* Spring/Summer 2019 (Samuel Ross) — legacy for Louis Vuitton (via A-COLD-WALL* Spring/Summer 2019)

Peers and kindred spirits

• Hublot. Ross and Hublot jointly presented a limited-edition watch. (also via Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross) “Samuel Ross: There's a sense of purity and liberty in their creation process. By that, I mean Hublot's manufacture has the capacity to produce and engineer new materials and realities, on what a watch of the future can be” (Wallpaper*)
• Zara. Ross contributed to Zara's anniversary collection. “I think we need to dream big and perhaps since the loss of Virgil, the kinetic energy to dream big, perhaps, hasn't been as optimistic as it could be, and I hope to signal through this partnership with the largest company in Spain t…” (New Wave Magazine)
• Luca Guadagnino. Ross and Guadagnino were both named as participants in Zara's anniversary collection. “Samuel Ross and Vincent van Duysen all created items for the collection. Other contributors include film director Luca Guadagnino , photographer Annie Leibovitz, singer Robbie Williams and supermodels Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and K…” (Dezeen)
• London Design Biennale. Ross served as artistic director of the 2025 biennale. “Dr. Samuel Ross MBE is the Artistic Director of the 2025 London Design Biennale. The British designer and artist is founder of A-COLD-WALL* and SR_A SR_A, as well as the Black British Artists Grants Programme.” (London Design Biennale)
• LVMH. LVMH is explicitly named among Ross's collaborators. “Since founding these organisations, Ross has collaborated with companies such as Apple , Kohler , LVMH , Nike , and William Grant & Sons .” (Wikipedia)
• David Chipperfield. Ross and Chipperfield were both named as participants in Zara's anniversary collection. “he participated in Zara 's 50th Anniversary collection along with a group of 50 artists and creative industry heavyweights including Pedro Almodóvar , David Chipperfield , Es Devlin , Vincent Van Duysen [ nl ] , Norman Foster , Luca Guad…” (Wikipedia)
• Apple. Apple is explicitly named among Ross's collaborators. “Since founding these organisations, Ross has collaborated with companies such as Apple , Kohler , LVMH , Nike , and William Grant & Sons .” (Wikipedia)
• Norman Foster (1935). Ross and Foster were both named as participants in Zara's anniversary collection. “he participated in Zara 's 50th Anniversary collection along with a group of 50 artists and creative industry heavyweights including Pedro Almodóvar , David Chipperfield , Es Devlin , Vincent Van Duysen [ nl ] , Norman Foster , Luca Guad…” (Wikipedia)
• Donda by Kanye West. Ross did design work for Donda. “During his time working for Abloh, Ross also designed for Kanye West 's creative content company Donda and related companies.” (Wikipedia)
• Jerry Lorenzo. Ross describes visiting Lorenzo’s showroom and their longstanding rapport. “I made time to see Jerry [Lorenzo] at the Fear of God showroom. He’s a really dear friend. For years, we’ve had a great rapport” (Vogue)
• William Grant & Sons. William Grant & Sons is explicitly named among Ross's collaborators. “Since founding these organisations, Ross has collaborated with companies such as Apple , Kohler , LVMH , Nike , and William Grant & Sons .” (Wikipedia)
• Nike. Nike is explicitly named among Ross's collaborators. “Since founding these organisations, Ross has collaborated with companies such as Apple , Kohler , LVMH , Nike , and William Grant & Sons .” (Wikipedia)
• Black British Artists Grants Programme. Ross established the grants programme. “In 2020, Ross established the Black British Artists Grants Programme [ d ] .” (Wikipedia)
• Es Devlin. Ross and Devlin were both named as participants in Zara's anniversary collection. “he participated in Zara 's 50th Anniversary collection along with a group of 50 artists and creative industry heavyweights including Pedro Almodóvar , David Chipperfield , Es Devlin , Vincent Van Duysen [ nl ] , Norman Foster , Luca Guad…” (Wikipedia)
• A-COLD-WALL*. Ross founded the fashion label A-COLD-WALL*. “In 2014, Ross independently founded A-COLD-WALL*, a fashion label, self-described as a "material study for social architecture."” (Wikipedia)
• Kohler. Kohler is explicitly named among Ross's collaborators. “Since founding these organisations, Ross has collaborated with companies such as Apple , Kohler , LVMH , Nike , and William Grant & Sons .” (Wikipedia)
• Vincent Van Duysen. Ross and Van Duysen were both named as participants in Zara's anniversary collection. “he participated in Zara 's 50th Anniversary collection along with a group of 50 artists and creative industry heavyweights including Pedro Almodóvar , David Chipperfield , Es Devlin , Vincent Van Duysen [ nl ] , Norman Foster , Luca Guad…” (Wikipedia)
• The Balvenie. A cited article explicitly describes a partnership between Ross and The Balvenie. “"Samuel Ross and The Balvenie Have Announced a Partnership for Milan Design Week" . Hypebeast . 18 March 2025 .” (Wikipedia)
• Marta Ortega. Ross describes meeting Ortega while developing his Zara project. “This concept came about after a dear friend, Anita Templer, introduced me to Marta Ortega. My business partner Yi Ng and I have been working on this view of the future of apparel for the past year and a half.” (Vogue)
• Annie Leibovitz. Ross and Leibovitz were both named as participants in Zara's anniversary collection. “he participated in Zara 's 50th Anniversary collection along with a group of 50 artists and creative industry heavyweights including Pedro Almodóvar , David Chipperfield , Es Devlin , Vincent Van Duysen [ nl ] , Norman Foster , Luca Guad…” (Wikipedia)
• WHOOP. A cited article describes Ross's creative partnership with WHOOP. “"WHOOP Announces Creative Partnership With Designer Samuel Ross for Multi-Year 'Project Terrain' Collaboration" . Variety .” (Wikipedia)
• Beats. Ross was appointed a design consultant for Beats. “Also in 2023, Ross was hired by Apple for the newly created role of "Principal Design Consultant for Beats ".” (Wikipedia)
• Kim Jones. Ross recalls receiving career advice from Jones. “Kim gave me quite a bit of advice early in my career when I won the BFC/ GQ Designer Menswear Fund.” (Vogue)
• SR_A. Ross co-founded the design studio SR_A. “In 2019, Ross and his business partner Yi Ng [ d ] founded SR_A SR_A.” (Wikipedia)
• Pedro Almodóvar (1949). Ross and Almodóvar were both named as participants in Zara's anniversary collection. “he participated in Zara 's 50th Anniversary collection along with a group of 50 artists and creative industry heavyweights including Pedro Almodóvar , David Chipperfield , Es Devlin , Vincent Van Duysen [ nl ] , Norman Foster , Luca Guad…” (Wikipedia)
• Kate Moss. Ross and Moss were both named as participants in Zara's anniversary collection. “he participated in Zara 's 50th Anniversary collection along with a group of 50 artists and creative industry heavyweights including Pedro Almodóvar , David Chipperfield , Es Devlin , Vincent Van Duysen [ nl ] , Norman Foster , Luca Guad…” (Wikipedia)
• Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019 menswear collection by Virgil Abloh (2018). Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019 menswear collection (Virgil Abloh) — collaborator for Samuel Ross “He went on to intern for, and was subsequently hired by, Virgil Abloh, who became Ross's mentor.” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross by Hublot (2023). Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross (Hublot) — collaborator for Samuel Ross “Ross launched SR_A (Samuel Ross & Associates) at the Hublot Prize exhibition in the Serpentine Gallery in 2019.” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Yeezus by Kanye West (2013). Yeezus (Kanye West) — collaborator for Samuel Ross “During his time working for Abloh, Ross also designed for Kanye West's creative content company Donda and related companies.” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Spring/Summer 2019 collection by Nicholas Daley (2018). Spring/Summer 2019 collection (Nicholas Daley) — peer for Samuel Ross
• Spring/Summer 2016 collection by Craig Green (2015). Spring/Summer 2016 collection (Craig Green) — geography for Samuel Ross
• Spring/Summer 2018 collection by Martine Rose (2017). Spring/Summer 2018 collection (Martine Rose) — geography for Samuel Ross
• Spring/Summer 2017 collection by Bianca Saunders (2019). Spring/Summer 2017 collection (Bianca Saunders) — peer for Samuel Ross
• Ini Archibong. Archibong and Ross had work in the same group show.
• Autumn/Winter 2018 collection by Kiko Kostadinov (2018). Autumn/Winter 2018 collection (Kiko Kostadinov) — peer for Samuel Ross
• Autumn/Winter 2017 collection by Grace Wales Bonner (2017). Autumn/Winter 2017 collection (Grace Wales Bonner) — geography for Samuel Ross
• Charlene Prempeh. SR_A: Samuel Ross (Samuel Ross) — collaborator for Charlene Prempeh (via SR_A: Samuel Ross)

Who Samuel Ross influenced

• Twist by Saul Nash (2021). Twist (Saul Nash) — legacy for Samuel Ross
• Silent Madness by Mowalola Ogunlesi (2019). Silent Madness (Mowalola Ogunlesi) — legacy for Samuel Ross