Juergen Teller: influences, peers and legacy

Every connection with its receipt

Juergen Teller came out of Bavaria and the Munich photography school, landed in London in 1986 shooting record sleeves, and then detonated fashion photography's gloss with flash-lit, unretouched, deliberately graceless pictures. This mix traces the documentary and snapshot lineage he drew on, the German photographic ground he grew from, the musicians, designers and actors who shaped his picture-making, and the generation that took his harsh flash as permission.

The Kynda mix for Juergen Teller

• Key Influence · The Ballad of Sexual Dependency by Nan Goldin (1986). Goldin's slide-show diary of lovers, bruises and bathrooms established the hard on-camera flash and intimate, unposed register that fashion photography absorbed in the 1990s and that Teller pushed furthest into commercial work. Her insistence that the photographer belongs inside the picture's social world underpins Teller's later practice of inserting himself, often nude and unflattering, among his subjects rather than standing behind the camera as an invisible stylist.
• Influencia Obscura · Case History by Boris Mikhailov (1999). Mikhailov's flash-blasted photographs of homeless Kharkiv residents, often posed and paid, are the most uncomfortable interrogation of consent, dignity and the photographer's money in late twentieth-century image-making. The questions it forces — who profits, who performs, what the bargain between photographer and body actually is — sit directly beneath Teller's commercial portraits, where luxury clients and unsparing flash occupy the same frame.
• Local Roots · Waffenruhe by Michael Schmidt (1987). Schmidt's bleak grey study of West Berlin before the Wall fell is the key postwar German photobook outside the Düsseldorf typology school, built on harsh contrast, fragments of bodies and walls, and a refusal of beauty. It maps the German photographic temperament Teller emerged from and reacted within: an unsentimental attention to damaged national surfaces, carried into his own Bavarian and Nuremberg series.
• Beyond the Medium · Goo by Sonic Youth (1990). Teller's London career began shooting musicians for record companies and the music press before fashion claimed him, and the American noise-rock and indie culture of the late 1980s set his visual temperature: cheap flash, bad venues, disinterest in flattery. Sonic Youth's sleeve art and attitude typify the scene whose anti-professional aesthetic migrated wholesale into the magazines Teller shot for after 1990.
• Peer · Concorde by Wolfgang Tillmans (1997). Tillmans, also German-born and also drawn to London, built a parallel career in the same magazines in the same years, moving between club portraits, still lifes and abstraction while insisting that editorial work and gallery work were one practice. Both men carried German training into British youth culture publishing, and both forced the art world to take fashion-adjacent photography seriously in the 1990s.
• From the Canon · Go-Sees by Juergen Teller (1999). For a year Teller photographed every aspiring model who knocked at his London door hoping for work, producing a relentless catalogue of young women on a doorstep in daylight. It is the clearest statement of his method: an industry's mechanics made visible, the ritual of being looked at turned into the subject, and the photographer's own gatekeeping power placed inside the picture rather than hidden behind it.
• Key Collaborator · Anglomania by Vivienne Westwood (1993). Westwood was among the designers who entrusted Teller with campaign imagery when his look was still considered unusable by the industry, and the partnership ran for years, including famously unvarnished portraits of the designer herself. Her punk-rooted tailoring and willingness to look ungainly rather than polished made her the natural client for a photographer whose lighting flatters nobody.
• Legacy · Homes by Harley Weir (2017). Weir moved between campaigns for major fashion houses and reportage from refugee camps using the same tactile, unglamorous, close-up language, exactly the double life Teller normalised. Her generation inherited the premise that a photographer can work for luxury clients without adopting studio polish, and that the body photographed badly, in bad light, can be the more truthful image.

What influenced Juergen Teller

• Goo by Sonic Youth (1990). Goo (Sonic Youth) — culture for Juergen Teller “In 1997, Marc Jacobs worked with Teller's then-partner, Venetia Scott to style his collections and Teller shot Kim Gordon from Sonic Youth for the Spring Summer 1998 campaign.” (en.wikipedia.org)
• The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant by Rainer Werner Fassbinder (1972). The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant (Rainer Werner Fassbinder) — culture for Juergen Teller (themoviedb.org)
• The Americans by Robert Frank (1958). The Americans (Robert Frank) — titan for Juergen Teller (wikidata.org)
• Case History by Boris Mikhailov (1999). Case History (Boris Mikhailov) — ghost for Juergen Teller “Simpson, Kurt Cobain, Bjork, Kate Moss, Elton John, Joan Didion, Pelé, Michael Olise, David Hockney, Roni Horn, Sarah Lucas, William Eggleston, Boris Mikhailov and Araki Nobuyoshi.” (en.wikipedia.org)
• The Ballad of Sexual Dependency by Nan Goldin (1986). The Ballad of Sexual Dependency (Nan Goldin) — titan for Juergen Teller (wikidata.org)
• I Like America and America Likes Me by Joseph Beuys (1974). I Like America and America Likes Me (Joseph Beuys) — culture for Juergen Teller (wikidata.org)
• Tulsa by Larry Clark (1971). Tulsa (Larry Clark) — titan for Juergen Teller
• Tarzan Reservation by Miroslav Tichý (2006). Tarzan Reservation (Miroslav Tichý) — ghost for Juergen Teller

Peers and kindred spirits

• Academy of Fine Arts in Nuremberg. Teller held a photography professorship at the academy. “Teller won the prestigious Citibank Photography Prize in 2003, and from 2014 to 2019 held a professorship at the Akademie der Bildenden Künste Nürnberg.” (Steidl)
• Boris Mikhailov by Boris Mikhailov. Teller describes sharing work from his book project with Mikhailov. “This book is dedicated to four of Teller’s most important masters who have influenced both his work and outlook on life— Nobuyoshi Araki , William Eggleston , Boris Mikhailov and Charlotte Rampling—and feature new portraits of them.” (Steidl)
• Marc Jacobs (1963). States Jacobs worked with photographer Juergen Teller for advertising campaigns. (also via Marc Jacobs Advertising 1998–2009) “In 1997, Marc Jacobs worked with Teller's then-partner, Venetia Scott to style his collections and Teller shot Kim Gordon from Sonic Youth for the Spring Summer 1998 campaign.” (Wikipedia)
• Kim Kardashian by Kim Kardashian. The article identifies Kardashian West as one of Teller’s photographic subjects. “He has captured everyone from Kanye West and Kim Kardashian West, to Claudia Schiffer, and Kate Moss, making fashion history with his apparently spontaneous high-flash analogue images.” (SLEEK)
• Cindy Sherman. Sherman appeared with Teller in a campaign photograph. (also via Untitled Film Stills) “For the brand's 2005 campaign, he photographed himself with Cindy Sherman and also collaborated with Winona Ryder , Sofia Coppola , Helena Bonham Carter , Michael Stipe , Rufus Wainwright and Harmony Korine amongst others until the SS201…” (Wikipedia)
• William Eggleston by William Eggleston. Teller recounts photographing Eggleston for a magazine. “I was asked by Art+Auction magazine to photograph Eggleston in Memphis. We got along very well, so after three days he came with me in the taxi to the airport” (System Magazine)
• Vivienne Westwood by Vivienne Westwood (1941). Teller describes photographing Westwood’s fashion campaigns over several years. “Well, you should know that I’ve shot her fashion campaigns for the past five or six years. I always thought that the best spokesperson for the brand would be her husband and herself – not some young models.” (System Magazine)
• Charlotte Rampling by Charlotte Rampling. Teller recounts arranging a magazine-cover portrait session with Rampling. “Charlotte Rampling asked me to do her a favour and photograph her for the cover of a magazine. And I said to her, I’ll do it, but please come to London” (SLEEK)
• Kate Moss by Kate Moss. The original magazine credit identifies Teller as the photographer of Moss. “Kate Moss 1997 Dazed and Confused, November 1997 Photography by Juergen Teller, styling by Katie Grand” (Dazed)
• Sarah Lucas by Sarah Lucas. The article places Lucas and Teller in the same group exhibition, rather than documenting a jointly made work. “The Quick and the Dead: Hambling – Horsley – Lucas – Simmons – Teller is at the Jerwood Gallery , Hastings until 6 January 2019” (The Guardian)
• David Hockney by David Hockney (1937). Hockney is listed among Teller’s photographic subjects. “Teller has photographed many celebrities, musicians, artists, athletes, and photographers, including Arnold Schwarzenegger , O. J. Simpson , Kurt Cobain , Bjork , Kate Moss , Elton John , Joan Didion , Pelé , Michael Olise , [ 15 ] David…” (Wikipedia)
• Joan Didion by Joan Didion. Didion is listed among Teller’s photographic subjects. “Teller has photographed many celebrities, musicians, artists, athletes, and photographers, including Arnold Schwarzenegger , O. J. Simpson , Kurt Cobain , Bjork , Kate Moss , Elton John , Joan Didion , Pelé , Michael Olise , [ 15 ] David…” (Wikipedia)
• Kanye West by Kanye West. Teller photographed West for a magazine and a supplement. “He photographed American rapper Kanye West for T: The New York Times Style Magazine and shot the 'Kanye, Juergen and Kim' supplement for System featuring Kanye West and Kim Kardashian as well as himself in 2015.” (Wikipedia)
• The Night Porter by Liliana Cavani (1974). The Night Porter (Liliana Cavani) — collaborator for Juergen Teller “She soon began making French and Italian arthouse films, notably Luchino Visconti's The Damned (1969) and Liliana Cavani's The Night Porter (1974).” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Rufus Wainwright. Wainwright is named among Teller’s campaign collaborators. “For the brand's 2005 campaign, he photographed himself with Cindy Sherman and also collaborated with Winona Ryder , Sofia Coppola , Helena Bonham Carter , Michael Stipe , Rufus Wainwright and Harmony Korine amongst others until the SS201…” (Wikipedia)
• Björk by Björk. Teller names a Björk single among the record covers he photographed. “Cocteau Twins, a Björk single, New Order… Then I went on tour with Nirvana, that was in 1991.” (System Magazine)
• Adidas. Adidas is listed among Teller’s collaborators. “Teller has also collaborated with a range of other designers and fashion houses during his career, including Helmut Lang , Yves Saint Laurent , [ 4 ] Vivienne Westwood , [ 10 ] Céline , [ 11 ] Missoni , Moschino , Barney's , Louis Vuitto…” (Wikipedia)
• Moschino. Moschino is listed among the fashion houses Teller worked with. “Teller has also collaborated with a range of other designers and fashion houses during his career, including Helmut Lang , Yves Saint Laurent , [ 4 ] Vivienne Westwood , [ 10 ] Céline , [ 11 ] Missoni , Moschino , Barney's , Louis Vuitto…” (Wikipedia)
• Helmut Lang (1956). Helmut Lang is listed among Teller’s fashion collaborators. “Teller has also collaborated with a range of other designers and fashion houses during his career, including Helmut Lang , Yves Saint Laurent , [ 4 ] Vivienne Westwood , [ 10 ] Céline , [ 11 ] Missoni , Moschino , Barney's , Louis Vuitto…” (Wikipedia)
• Palace. Palace is listed among Teller’s fashion collaborators. “Teller has also collaborated with a range of other designers and fashion houses during his career, including Helmut Lang , Yves Saint Laurent , [ 4 ] Vivienne Westwood , [ 10 ] Céline , [ 11 ] Missoni , Moschino , Barney's , Louis Vuitto…” (Wikipedia)
• Barney's. Barney’s is listed among Teller’s fashion collaborators. “Teller has also collaborated with a range of other designers and fashion houses during his career, including Helmut Lang , Yves Saint Laurent , [ 4 ] Vivienne Westwood , [ 10 ] Céline , [ 11 ] Missoni , Moschino , Barney's , Louis Vuitto…” (Wikipedia)
• Untitled Film Stills by Cindy Sherman (1977). Untitled Film Stills (Cindy Sherman) — collaborator for Juergen Teller “For the brand's 2005 campaign, he photographed himself with Cindy Sherman and also collaborated with Winona Ryder, Sofia Coppola, Helena Bonham Carter, Michael Stipe, Rufus Wainwright and Harmony Korine amongst others until the SS2014 ca…” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Missoni. Missoni is listed among the fashion houses Teller worked with. “Teller has also collaborated with a range of other designers and fashion houses during his career, including Helmut Lang , Yves Saint Laurent , [ 4 ] Vivienne Westwood , [ 10 ] Céline , [ 11 ] Missoni , Moschino , Barney's , Louis Vuitto…” (Wikipedia)
• Yves Saint Laurent (1936). Yves Saint Laurent is listed among Teller’s fashion collaborators. “Teller has also collaborated with a range of other designers and fashion houses during his career, including Helmut Lang , Yves Saint Laurent , [ 4 ] Vivienne Westwood , [ 10 ] Céline , [ 11 ] Missoni , Moschino , Barney's , Louis Vuitto…” (Wikipedia)
• Louis Vuitton. Louis Vuitton is listed among Teller’s fashion collaborators. “Teller has also collaborated with a range of other designers and fashion houses during his career, including Helmut Lang , Yves Saint Laurent , [ 4 ] Vivienne Westwood , [ 10 ] Céline , [ 11 ] Missoni , Moschino , Barney's , Louis Vuitto…” (Wikipedia)
• Nobuyoshi Araki by Nobuyoshi Araki. Teller’s publisher says The Master IV includes a new portrait of Araki. “This book is dedicated to four of Teller’s most important masters who have influenced both his work and outlook on life— Nobuyoshi Araki , William Eggleston , Boris Mikhailov and Charlotte Rampling—and feature new portraits of them.” (Steidl)
• Winona Ryder. Ryder is named among Teller’s campaign collaborators. “For the brand's 2005 campaign, he photographed himself with Cindy Sherman and also collaborated with Winona Ryder , Sofia Coppola , Helena Bonham Carter , Michael Stipe , Rufus Wainwright and Harmony Korine amongst others until the SS201…” (Wikipedia)
• Valentino. Valentino is listed among Teller’s fashion collaborators. “Teller has also collaborated with a range of other designers and fashion houses during his career, including Helmut Lang , Yves Saint Laurent , [ 4 ] Vivienne Westwood , [ 10 ] Céline , [ 11 ] Missoni , Moschino , Barney's , Louis Vuitto…” (Wikipedia)
• Céline. Céline is listed among the fashion houses Teller worked with. “Teller has also collaborated with a range of other designers and fashion houses during his career, including Helmut Lang , Yves Saint Laurent , [ 4 ] Vivienne Westwood , [ 10 ] Céline , [ 11 ] Missoni , Moschino , Barney's , Louis Vuitto…” (Wikipedia)
• Helena Bonham Carter. Bonham Carter is named among Teller’s campaign collaborators. “For the brand's 2005 campaign, he photographed himself with Cindy Sherman and also collaborated with Winona Ryder , Sofia Coppola , Helena Bonham Carter , Michael Stipe , Rufus Wainwright and Harmony Korine amongst others until the SS201…” (Wikipedia)
• Kim Gordon. Teller photographed Gordon for a fashion campaign. “In 1997, Marc Jacobs worked with Teller's then-partner, Venetia Scott to style his collections and Teller shot Kim Gordon from Sonic Youth for the Spring Summer 1998 campaign.” (Wikipedia)
• Roni Horn. Horn is listed among Teller’s photographic subjects. “Teller has photographed many celebrities, musicians, artists, athletes, and photographers, including Arnold Schwarzenegger , O. J. Simpson , Kurt Cobain , Bjork , Kate Moss , Elton John , Joan Didion , Pelé , Michael Olise , [ 15 ] David…” (Wikipedia)
• Harmony Korine. Korine is named among Teller’s campaign collaborators. “For the brand's 2005 campaign, he photographed himself with Cindy Sherman and also collaborated with Winona Ryder , Sofia Coppola , Helena Bonham Carter , Michael Stipe , Rufus Wainwright and Harmony Korine amongst others until the SS201…” (Wikipedia)
• Michael Stipe. Stipe is named among Teller’s campaign collaborators. “For the brand's 2005 campaign, he photographed himself with Cindy Sherman and also collaborated with Winona Ryder , Sofia Coppola , Helena Bonham Carter , Michael Stipe , Rufus Wainwright and Harmony Korine amongst others until the SS201…” (Wikipedia)
• Kylie Minogue. Teller photographed Minogue for her album artwork. “He photographed Kylie Minogue for the artwork of her 1991 album Let's Get to It .” (Wikipedia)
• Sofia Coppola (1971). Coppola is named among Teller’s campaign collaborators. “For the brand's 2005 campaign, he photographed himself with Cindy Sherman and also collaborated with Winona Ryder , Sofia Coppola , Helena Bonham Carter , Michael Stipe , Rufus Wainwright and Harmony Korine amongst others until the SS201…” (Wikipedia)
• Bjork. Bjork is listed among Teller’s photographic subjects. “Teller has photographed many celebrities, musicians, artists, athletes, and photographers, including Arnold Schwarzenegger , O. J. Simpson , Kurt Cobain , Bjork , Kate Moss , Elton John , Joan Didion , Pelé , Michael Olise , [ 15 ] David…” (Wikipedia)
• Anglomania by Vivienne Westwood (1993). Anglomania (Vivienne Westwood) — collaborator for Juergen Teller “Teller has also collaborated with a range of other designers and fashion houses during his career, including Helmut Lang, Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood, Céline, Missoni, Moschino, Barney's, Louis Vuitton, Adidas, Palace and Valen…” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Miuccia Prada (1949). Juergen Teller directed short films for Prada's final collection unveiling.
• Terryworld by Terry Richardson (2004). Terryworld (Terry Richardson) — peer for Juergen Teller

…and 6 more on the map above.

Who Juergen Teller influenced

• Homes by Harley Weir (2017). Homes (Harley Weir) — legacy for Juergen Teller
• Coming of Age by Petra Collins (2017). Coming of Age (Petra Collins) — legacy for Juergen Teller