Alexander McQueen: influences, peers and legacy

Every connection with its receipt

Lee Alexander McQueen welded Savile Row tailoring to the gothic theatre of the East End, turning the runway into a space for bird attacks, asylums and holographic apparitions. This mix traces the couture lineage he apprenticed into, the darker visual sources behind his most notorious shows, and the designers and performers who inherited his appetite for spectacle.

The Kynda mix for Alexander McQueen

• Key Influence · Givenchy Haute Couture by Hubert de Givenchy (1952). At 27 McQueen was installed as chief designer at Givenchy in 1996, inheriting the house Hubert de Givenchy founded in 1952 — the sharp-shouldered suiting and architectural simplicity he dressed Audrey Hepburn in. McQueen famously called the archive's restraint limiting, and his five tumultuous years there defined him by opposition: learning the discipline of a Parisian couture atelier while pushing against its decorum until he left in 2001.
• Influencia Obscura · Sanitarium by Joel-Peter Witkin (1983). Witkin's staged photographs of masked, bound and anatomically unusual bodies are the acknowledged visual source behind McQueen's most extreme tableaux. The VOSS show of 2001 ended with a glass box shattering to reveal writer Michelle Olley nude, masked and surrounded by live moths — a direct restaging of Witkin's Sanitarium. Witkin's imagery also fed the Dante collection, where religious iconography met images of mortality and medical spectacle.
• Local Roots · Pirate collection by Vivienne Westwood (1981). Westwood established the London template McQueen worked within: historical tailoring plundered and vandalised, shows staged as confrontations, Britishness used as weapon rather than heritage. Pirate, her first catwalk collection, proved a London designer could build a career on romantic insurgency. McQueen emerged from the same city a decade later, trained on Savile Row rather than the King's Road, but carrying the identical instinct for provocation.
• Beyond the Medium · The Birds by Alfred Hitchcock (1963). McQueen named his Spring/Summer 1995 collection The Birds after Hitchcock's film, sending out tyre-marked dresses and swallow prints with models styled as sleek Hitchcock blondes under attack. Birds, feathers and predation recur across his career, from the feathered gowns to the raptor imagery of later shows. Hitchcock's cool, immaculately dressed heroines menaced by nature gave him a complete grammar of elegance under threat.
• Peer · Afterwords by Hussein Chalayan (2000). Chalayan graduated from Central Saint Martins two years before McQueen and became his closest conceptual rival in nineties London: both treated the show as installation rather than sales pitch. Afterwords, in which furniture transformed into garments and a table became a skirt, is the counterpart to VOSS from the same season — two London designers independently proving a catwalk could carry ideas about refuge, displacement and the body's shelter.
• From the Canon · Highland Rape by Alexander McQueen (1995). The Autumn/Winter 1995 show that made his reputation and his notoriety: models staggering through heather and bracken in slashed tartan and torn lace, which press read as misogyny and McQueen insisted was about the Jacobite clearances and England's violence toward his Scottish ancestry. It established his method — historical grievance staged as fashion assault — and the bumster trousers that became his signature silhouette.
• Key Collaborator · Homogenic by Björk (1997). McQueen designed the kimono-and-neck-ring sleeve image for Björk's Homogenic and directed the video for Alarm Call, one of the deepest cross-medium partnerships of his career. Björk's fusion of Icelandic folk severity with electronic violence matched his own method of grafting craft onto brutality, and the album's cover remains among the clearest statements of his sculptural approach to dressing a single body.
• Legacy · Autumn/Winter 2009 collection by Gareth Pugh (2009). Pugh emerged from London in the mid-2000s as the most direct inheritor of McQueen's show-as-spectacle approach, building inflated geometric volumes and monochrome armour that turn models into figures from a ritual. He has spoken of McQueen as the designer who proved a British outsider could make fashion that was confrontational theatre, and his films and installations continue the idea that the garment's reveal is the artwork.

What influenced Alexander McQueen

• The Divine Comedy by Dante Alighieri (1320). The Divine Comedy (Dante Alighieri) — culture for Alexander McQueen “Ostensibly named after Dante, the fourteenth-century Florentine poet, who presented in his Divine Comedy an allegorical vision of the afterlife, the collection was a commentary on religion, war and innocence.” (Victoria and Albert Museum)
• The Birds by Alfred Hitchcock. The Birds (Alfred Hitchcock) — culture for Alexander McQueen “The Birds, which was named after the 1963 Alfred Hitchcock film The Birds and held at Kings Cross, had a roadkill theme featuring clothes with tyre marks and the corsetier Mr Pearl in an 18-inch waist corset.” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Portrait of Joel, New Mexico by Joel-Peter Witkin. Bethune identifies a specific Witkin photograph referenced in McQueen’s Dante collection. “McQueen also borrowed from his favourite photographic artist Joel-Peter Witkin, in particular the mask with the figure of Christ crucified, which he took from Witkin’s Portrait of Joel, New Mexico (1984).” (Victoria and Albert Museum)
• They Shoot Horses, Don't They? by Sydney Pollack. They Shoot Horses, Don't They? (Sydney Pollack) — culture for Alexander McQueen “The Autumn 2001 show, his last show in London before moving to Paris, featured a merry-go-round with models in clown make-up dragging along a golden skeleton; the Autumn/Winter 2002 Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious collection was shown…” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Rei Kawakubo (1942). McQueen praises Kawakubo's originality and challenging approach as inspirational to his understanding of fashion. “When Kawakubo designs a collection, it seems kind of absurd, not just to the general public. But when you watch someone's challenging themselves like she does every season, it makes you understand why you are in fashion in the first plac…” (Wikipedia)
• Vietnam War photographs by Don McCullin. Bethune documents McCullin’s war photographs appearing on garments in McQueen’s Dante collection. “Black and white photographs of social pariahs, including a nineteenth-century colony for the blind, and Don McCullin images of the Vietnam War were printed on jackets and coats” (Victoria and Albert Museum)
• Vivienne Westwood (1941). Alexander McQueen: Highland Rape (Autumn/Winter 1995) (Alexander McQueen) — legacy for Vivienne Westwood (via Alexander McQueen: Highland Rape (Autumn/Winter 1995), Pirate collection) “Former Sex Pistols bass guitarist Glen Matlock paid tribute to Westwood on Twitter, stating that it was "a privilege to have rubbed shoulders with her in the mid '70s at the birth of punk and the waves it created that still resound today…” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Taboo by Leigh Bowery (1985). Taboo (Leigh Bowery) — ghost for Alexander McQueen “In November 1994, Minty began a two-week-long show at London's Freedom Cafe, including audience member Alexander McQueen, but it was too much for Westminster City Council, who closed down the show after only one night.” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Romeo Gigli Spring/Summer collection by Romeo Gigli (1990). Romeo Gigli Spring/Summer collection (Romeo Gigli) — titan for Alexander McQueen “He had no standing job offer, but secured a position with Romeo Gigli on the basis of his portfolio and tailoring experience.” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Sanitarium by Joel-Peter Witkin (1983). Sanitarium (Joel-Peter Witkin) — ghost for Alexander McQueen “Joel-Peter Witkin's photograph Sanitarium inspired the final presentation of Alexander McQueen's Spring/Summer 2001 collection based on avian imagery, the walls of another box within the faux psychiatric ward collapsed to reveal a startl…” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Givenchy Haute Couture by Hubert de Givenchy (1968). Givenchy Haute Couture (Hubert de Givenchy) — titan for Alexander McQueen “Hubert de Givenchy, founder of the label known for its elegant couture, criticised McQueen's appointment, describing it as a "total disaster".” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Le Smoking by Yves Saint Laurent (1966). Le Smoking (Yves Saint Laurent) — titan for Alexander McQueen

Peers and kindred spirits

• Björk (1965). Björk performed at McQueen's memorial wearing a gown he designed, reflecting their close collaboration. (also via Homogenic, Pagan Poetry, Alarm Call) “Björk, a close friend of McQueen's, performed a version of " Gloomy Sunday " while dressed in a gown he had designed.” (Wikipedia)
• John Galliano. McQueen succeeded Galliano at Givenchy, linking their careers. (also via Les Incroyables) “McQueen was appointed head designer of Givenchy in 1996 to succeed John Galliano who had moved to Dior .” (Wikipedia)
• Lady Gaga (1986). Gaga wore McQueen designs in her music video. “Lady Gaga wore several McQueen designs, including the final outfit from Plato's Atlantis , in her video for " Bad Romance ".” (Wikipedia)
• Homogenic by Björk (1997). Homogenic (Björk) — collaborator for Alexander McQueen “I had done a photograph with him, and Bjork had seen it, and she reached out to work together on her album cover Homogenic” (V&A Dundee)
• Les Incroyables by John Galliano (1984). Les Incroyables (John Galliano) — peer for Alexander McQueen “While John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Gareth Pugh’s individual design aesthetics differ significantly, the common thread liking all four visionaries is not only the school in which they attended” (Minnie Muse)
• Coiled Corset by Shaun Leane (1999). Coiled Corset (Shaun Leane) — collaborator for Alexander McQueen “while a crown of thorns by Shaun Leane connected with the collection’s religious undercurrent.” (Victoria and Albert Museum)
• Afterwords by Hussein Chalayan (2000). Afterwords (Hussein Chalayan) — peer for Alexander McQueen “While John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Gareth Pugh’s individual design aesthetics differ significantly, the common thread liking all four visionaries is not only the school in which they attended” (Minnie Muse)
• Philip Treacy hats by Philip Treacy (1994). Philip Treacy hats (Philip Treacy) — collaborator for Alexander McQueen “A Philip Treacy headpiece of stag’s skull and antlers and a lace cap with withered hand by Simon Costin invoked memento mori” (Victoria and Albert Museum)
• Sylvie Guillem. McQueen designed wardrobe for a theatre collaboration with Guillem. “McQueen also collaborated with dancer Sylvie Guillem , director Robert Lepage and choreographer Russell Maliphant , designing the wardrobe for the theatre show "Eonnagata"” (Wikipedia)
• Shaun Leane. Long-term jewelry collaboration between McQueen and Leane. “A notable creation in the show was the coiled corset made in collaboration with jeweller Shaun Leane , who also crafted many other pieces for McQueen” (Wikipedia)
• Isabella Blow. Mugrabi describes Blow’s purchase of McQueen’s graduate collection and their ensuing creative partnership. “Blow, enamored with the designer’s daring vision and astonishing talent, purchased the collection in its entirety, paying in cash; a transaction that served in many respects as a metaphorical contract, beginning a dear friendship and cre…” (Minnie Muse)
• Janet Jackson (1966). McQueen designed the costume Jackson wore at the Super Bowl halftime show. “A leather costume designed by McQueen was worn by Janet Jackson in her halftime show at Super Bowl XXXVIII in 2004” (Wikipedia)
• Robert Lepage. McQueen collaborated with director Robert Lepage on Eonnagata. “McQueen also collaborated with dancer Sylvie Guillem , director Robert Lepage and choreographer Russell Maliphant , designing the wardrobe for the theatre show "Eonnagata"” (Wikipedia)
• Pagan Poetry by Björk. McQueen designed a dress used in Björk's Pagan Poetry video. “later contributed the iconic topless dress to her video for "Pagan Poetry"” (Wikipedia)
• Alarm Call by Björk. McQueen directed a music video for Björk. “McQueen also directed the music video for her song " Alarm Call " from the same album” (Wikipedia)
• David Bowie (1947). McQueen designed stage wardrobe and album cover coat for Bowie. “In 1996, he designed the wardrobe for David Bowie 's tour of 1997, such as the Union Jack coat worn by Bowie on the cover of his album Earthling .” (Wikipedia)
• Russell Maliphant. McQueen collaborated with choreographer Russell Maliphant on Eonnagata. “McQueen also collaborated with dancer Sylvie Guillem , director Robert Lepage and choreographer Russell Maliphant , designing the wardrobe for the theatre show "Eonnagata"” (Wikipedia)
• Pirate collection by Vivienne Westwood (1981). Pirate collection (Vivienne Westwood) — geography for Alexander McQueen “Former Sex Pistols bass guitarist Glen Matlock paid tribute to Westwood on Twitter, stating that it was "a privilege to have rubbed shoulders with her in the mid '70s at the birth of punk and the waves it created that still resound today…” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Jubilee by Derek Jarman (1978). Jubilee (Derek Jarman) — geography for Alexander McQueen (themoviedb.org)
• The Dirty Words Pictures by Gilbert & George (1977). The Dirty Words Pictures (Gilbert & George) — geography for Alexander McQueen
• Artisanal collection by Maison Martin Margiela (1989). Artisanal collection (Maison Martin Margiela) — peer for Alexander McQueen

Who Alexander McQueen influenced

• Catherine Middleton's wedding dress by Sarah Burton (2011). Catherine Middleton's wedding dress (Sarah Burton) — legacy for Alexander McQueen “tradition and modernity with the artistic vision that characterizes Alexander McQueen’s work” (Vogue)
• Peter Blake (1948). Blake included McQueen in a reimagined version of his famous album cover art. “In 2012, McQueen was among the British cultural icons selected by artist Sir Peter Blake to appear in a new version of his most famous artwork—the Beatles' Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band album cover” (Wikipedia)
• McQueen (2018 film). A documentary film was made about McQueen's life and work. “the documentary McQueen , written and directed by Ian Bonhôte and Peter Ettedgui , was released in the UK.” (Wikipedia)
• Tina Gorjanc. Gorjanc's conceptual art project was directly based on and inspired by McQueen's own skin/DNA. “In 2016, a conceptual art piece made by Tina Gorjanc highlighted the possibility for corporations to copyright another human's DNA. She created a series out of pig leather tanned and tattooed to appear similar to McQueen's skin.” (Wikipedia)
• Monica (1978). Monica dedicated a music video to McQueen's memory. “R&B singer Monica dedicated her 2010 music video " Everything To Me " to McQueen.” (Wikipedia)
• Crystallization by Iris van Herpen (2010). Crystallization (Iris van Herpen) — legacy for Alexander McQueen “== Career == After graduating from the ArtEZ University of the Arts in Arnhem in 2006, Iris van Herpen interned at Alexander McQueen in London and Claudy Jongstra in Amsterdam before launching her own label in 2007.” (en.wikipedia.org)
• Autumn/Winter 2009 collection by Gareth Pugh (2009). Autumn/Winter 2009 collection (Gareth Pugh) — legacy for Alexander McQueen “== Aesthetic == Style.com describes Pugh as the "latest addition to a long tradition of fashion-as-performance-art that stretches back through Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and Vivienne Westwood to the eighties club culture of Leigh …” (en.wikipedia.org)